A visit to the Land Across the River

The view of Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives

For as long as I can remember I’ve wanted to visit Israel. This is a fairly typical desire for many people of faith. Jerusalem, in particular, is a historical treasure trove for Jews, Christians and Muslims alike. To visit places where Jesus lived, ministered, died, and overcame death - wow- surely this would be a faith inspiring trip.

Our accommodation was a second story flat built upon the original house in a ramshackle manner, with an incredible view across Old City Jerusalem all the way to the Mount of Olives beyond. Each morning we woke to the ringing of church bells (a difference to waking to the Muslim call to prayer back in Jordan), the sounds of guides doing early morning tours (we learnt a thing or two listening from our bedrooms!) and the sounds of the locals revving their engines to begin the day’s work. We were right in the thick of things.

Eating breakie whilst enjoying the view from the roof terrace

We began our first day walking through the alleyways of the Old City, one such being the Via Delarosa- the road Jesus walked carrying the cross he was to be crucified on. There were many devoted pilgrims walk this road- some carrying a cross, some kissing the doorposts. Eventually we made it outside the city walls to the Garden of Gethsemane at the base of the Mount of Olives. The garden contains obviously ancient olive trees with gnarled trunks that are perhaps a metre thick. Here Jesus prayed in agony preparing himself for his upcoming death. The church built beside the garden is called the Church of All Nations/ Church of the Agony of Christ. The light filtering through the purple alabaster windows and a choir singing in perfect harmony inspired prayer and reflection. It was really quite moving.

Ancient olive trees in the Garden of Gethsemane

We walked up the Mount of Olives, going the opposite direction on the road Jesus walked on Palm Sunday, when he descended into Jerusalem and was welcomed and praised as the Saviour of the Jews, only days before the same crowd turned on him and called for his execution. Up the top of the mountain we entered the Tomb of the Prophets, an underground cave believed to be where the Old Testament prophets Zechariah, Malachi and Haggai were buried over two and a half thousand years ago. We wandered around the tombs holding candles to light the way. It was atmospheric to say the least.

In the tomb of the Prophets on the Mount of Olives

Later we visited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre/ Church of the Resurrection, which is built on the site of the where Jesus was crucified and buried. Upon entering the church there is a slab of rock, where some believe Jesus’ body was prepared for burial, that people are kneeling before and kissing. Behind this is a large monument that can be entered to visit the tomb. It is covered from top to bottom with icons and is unrecognisable as a tomb. Very nearby are old steps up to a platform packed with people. Again, it was difficult to know what we were looking at without being told. People were lining up at rocks which had the imprints of where crosses had been mounted long ago. Essentially, the steps were in place of climbing up to Golgotha, the hill on which Jesus was crucified. I have spent quite a bit of time trying to find the right words for this place. Commercialised isn’t the right word, as it doesn’t cost a cent to visit. James introduced me to the word “iconoclastic” which describes a feeling of being overwhelmed or uncomfortable in a space full of religious icons. That is most certainly how I felt. But it also felt deeply unfamiliar to me, which saddened me. I had hoped to recognise “my” Jesus in this place of such significance to my faith, and yet I didn’t feel my faith was represented at all.

The slab that was supposedly where Jesus’ body was prepared for burial

The church built around Golgotha.

The following day we visited the birthplace of Jesus in Bethlehem. Again, an ancient church sits upon the site. My first impressions of the Church of the Nativity were refreshing. The entrance of the church is so low that you need to bow to get through. It was only recently that I learned that stables in Jesus’ time were likely caves rather than the barn image we see in so many of our nativity sets. This church is built around the cave believed to be where Jesus was born. As we moved towards this cave, the air was thick with incense and the room around the cave with icons and baubles.

The low door entrance to the Church of the Nativity

In the background is the cave that housed the manger. In the bottom left you can see the feet of a person lying prostrate to kiss the birthplace of Jesus.

On our final day in Jerusalem, we visited the Garden of the Tomb. This tomb is dated back to the time of Jesus and is set amongst a tranquil garden (John 19:41 Now in the place where they laid him there was a garden and in the garden a new tomb in which no one had been laid). It is not the most likely location, but it’s a legitimate option for the tomb of Jesus. The garden was bright and beautiful and smelt amazing. There were construction workers on site making plenty of noise, but it didn’t seem to pierce the peacefulness of the place. Inside the tomb there were several people praying their hearts out and I found myself swept up in their fervour. I had such a deep feeling of “at last”- like satisfying a craving that had been building in intensity. The gardens had many quiet places to sit and pray which we did as a family.

The tomb

The garden

Whilst I had been eagerly anticipating our time in the Land Across the River, I didn’t expect the emotional rollercoaster that it would be for me! To end our time in a peaceful place with an abiding sense of satisfaction was a lovely conclusion for our time there.

[Post script] I was given a quote regarding the Church of the Holy Sepulchre that resonates with me that I’d like to share here (thanks, Richard):

One expects the central shrine of Christendom to stand out in majestic isolation, but anonymous buildings cling to it like barnacles. One looks for numinous light, but it is dark and cramped. One hopes for peace, but the ear is assailed by a cacophony of warring chants. One desires holiness, only to encounter a jealous possessiveness: the six groups of occupants— Latin Catholics, Greek Orthodox, Armenian Orthodox, Syrians, Copts, Ethiopians—watch one another suspiciously for any infringement of rights. The frailty of humanity is nowhere more apparent than here; it epitomizes the human condition. The empty who come to be filled will leave desolate; those who permit the church to question them may begin to understand why hundreds of thousands thought it worthwhile to risk death or slavery in order to pray here. Is this the place where Christ died and was buried? Yes, very probably. (Murphy-O'Connor, Jerome. The Holy Land (Oxford Archaeological Guides) (p. 49). OUP Oxford. Kindle Edition.)